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South Africa & Lesotho
Facts:
Times are local times.
1 euro = 9.5-9.8 Rand
South Africa = 45 million people
President = Mbeki
Season = Spring
Official languages = 11
Total distance driven by us = 6274 km
Thursday 14-Sep-2005
05.30: Wake up.
06.30: Bus and train from Huizen to Amsterdam Schiphol Airport.
09.45: Boarding airplane "City of Shanghai" took off from Schiphol Airport. Flight KL 0591 with KLM Boeing 747-400 (we had seats 26A and 26B, just above the front of the left wing).
11.15: We departed with a 45 minute delay (due to baggage stowing problems). The route began from the Zwanenburg runway, then over Huizen via Germany, Italy and the Sahara to South Africa. We had clear skies. During the flight we watched the movies "Nacho Libre", "Mission Impossible 3" and "Ice Age - The meltdown.
18.00: Sjoukje and Ton crossed the equator for their very first time.
21.30: We landed in Johannesburg and Derick and Christa's plane landed right behind us. We actually saw each other's planes on the runway.
22.00: After clearing customs we picked up our rental car (start odometer is 23700 KM), after which Derick drove us to his in-laws place in Randburg. On the way over, our first South African picture was taken by a "robot" (traffic light's speed camera).
01.00: We were tired and sleepy. Goodnight.
Friday 15-Sep-2006
08.00: Wake up and breakfast.
11.00: We couldn't withdraw money from the ATM machine due to a technical error in Holland.
12.00: We left Randburg and we took highway N1 and N12 via Witbank, Belfast and Gullstroom (dinner at 16.00) to Sabie. Somewhere just before Sabie there was a police check point. Just a few kilometers before Sabie we saw a vervet monkey crossing the road.
18.00: We checked at The Woodsmann B&B in Sabie (R495) at dusk.
19.30-10.30: Drinks in the bar. And then off to bed.
Saturday 16-Sep-2006
06.45: Wake up for a humongous breakfast at Woodsmann.
09.00: Shopping at Spar.
10.30: Underway to Kruger Park we stopped the Mac Mac Falls and Pelgrim's Rest. Between Graskop and Hazyview we enjoyed a wonderful view of the Lowveld.
13.00: We stopped in Hazyview for lunch. Chicken burger for Sjoukje (R30) and a steak roll for Ton (R30) and a big Windhoek Draught (R15).
15.00: We arrived at Paul Krüger (Gate) National Park on the south side. On the road to our first camp we saw a group of impala's and zebra's.
16.00: Arrival at Skukuza camp, our first camp of three. We went shopping and we watched for wild life (game) at the river.
21.00: Bed time
Sunday 17-Sep-2006
05.00: Wake up for breakfast and getting ready for safari.
06.00: We left Skukuza camp and drove to Tshokwakaza Camp, where we stopped and the to Satara Camp for lunch. Within 5 hours we spotted 4 animals of the big 5: rhino, lions, elephant and buffalo. We only missed the leopard. Amongst other we also saw impala, zebra, wildebeest and giraffes.
11.30: Lunch at Satara Camp.
14.00: The temperature is 36,5 degrees Celsius and the humidity is 42.
16.00: Arrival at Letaba camp. We went animal watching at the veranda of the restaurant and did some shopping.
18.00: Dinner within a thunderstorm and some rain fall.
19.45: Call received from Derick.
20.00: Bed time, we're tired.
Monday 18-Sep-2006
05.00: Early wake up.
06.10: We left Letaba Camp and drove to Mopani camp.
09.00: We had a coffee at Mopani Camp and from here we drove to our second stop. On the way we saw hippo's, elephants, giraffe's, zebra's and a tripe of baboons (monkies).
11.30: Arrival at Shingwadzi Camp for lunch.
12.00: We left Shingwadzi Camp and continued our last leg of Krüger Park to our final overnight stop at Punda Maria Camp (north Krüger). We drove about 200 kilometers today.
15.30: Arrival at Punda Maria Camp. It's the smallest camp of the three we stayed at.
18.30: Dinner in the camp restaurant. Chicken schnitzel, steak, still mineral water and beer ... all for R 130, which is about € 30 in total. After dinner we spent some time at the veranda of our room, where we listened to all the animal sounds by oil lamp. The evening was a little bit chilly.
21.30: Time for a big nap, because tomorrow we need to drive an estimated 630 kilometers (6 to 7 hours) to Boshoek, near Sun City.
Tuesday 19-Sep-2006
06.30: Wake up for breakfast in the camp's restaurant.
08.30: We left camp towards the Krüger Park gate, on our way to Boshoek near Sun City. The first 140 kilometers to highway N1 went through a pretty poor part of the country. And all the way we saw lots of bush fires. And toll stations ..
15.30: Dinner at "Waterval Braai Restaurant" (Ultra City) in Regensburg. Rump steak for 48 Rand and a cheese burger for 25 Rand. From starved to stuffed in 15 minutes ...
18.30: After 660 kilometers of almost continuous driving we arrived at "Authentique" French Guest House near Boshoek. We got the "La Provence" cabin (R495 per night).
21.00: After a long day of traveling we fell asleep.
Wednesday 20-Sep-2006
07.30: Wake up.
08.30: Breakfast at "Authentique" French Guest House.
11.00: Arrival at Sun City (R65 pp). We went to the "Valley of Waves" pool, where they made huge waves.
15.00: High tea at Palace Hotel (Lost City).
16.30: We met Derick's family at Vacation Park (Sun City). They made a lovely "braai" (bbq) dinner with traditional South African "mielli pap" (corn paste). Derick made a backup of our pictures (to #1462) onto his laptop.
22.30: We drove back from Sun City to Boshoek on a pitch dark road. The was a bush fire a few kilometers away from our guest house, on the main road R565.
23.30: Bed time.
Thursday 21-Sep-2006
Km: 25450-26111 = 655 km.
07.30: Ton's mobile phone woke us up.
08.30: Breakfast at "Authentique" French Guest House.
10.00: On our way to Kwa Zulu Natal via Pretoria and Johannesburg (N4, N1, N3).
13.30: Lunch at Wimpy near Villiers. From here we drove the impressive area of the Drakensberg, near Bergville.
18.00: Arrival at the Orion Mont-Aux-Sources hotel, just before the entrance of the Royal Natal National Park. This hotel in the nothern Drakensberg offers a great view at the spectacular Amphitheatre. The Mount-Aux-Sources (3248 m.) is the highest mountain top of South Africa. Also in the hotel stayed a bus load of Dutch "OAD" tourists.
19.00: Dinner buffet at the hotel ... with OAD tourists.
21.00-22.00: We enjoyed a glass of wine at the hotel launch bar.
23.00: Bed time.
Friday 22-Sep-2006
Km: 26111- 26530 = 418 km.
06.30: Waking up.
09.00: After breakfast at the hotel we visited the Amphitheatre in Royal Natal National Park.
11.00: We started driving Maloti route via the impressive Golden Gate (stopped to fuel the car) to Clarens, an artist town. We saw lots of baboons (monkeys) alongside the road.
13.30: Lunch at "The Grouse & Claret" in Clarens. After lunch we visited the artist shops and we bought a hand made welded steel frame with 3 lilies (R250).
14.30: Back en-route through Free State. We passed the towns of Clocolan and Ladybrand.
18.00: Looking for a place to stay we ended up in a cottage on a farm in Wepener, "The Fleetwood Inn". Rate: R260.
20.30: After a few glasses of rosé and wine we went to sleep.
Saturday 23-Sep-2006
Km: 26530 - 26630= 100 km.
06.00: Waking up for breakfast.
08.30: Start driving to the country of Lesotho.
10.00: Arrival at the Lesotho border at Van Rooijens Gate. From here we drove over the "Gate to Paradise Pass" (2001 mtr.) to Malealea village.
11.00: Arrival at Malealea Resort in Malealea (http://www.Malealea.com). Upon arrival two schools were issued shoes, donated by a Dutch charity organization.
14.00: We made a walk in the village with 3 local children.
19.00: Dinner at the lodge. And drinks (e.g. The local Maluti beer) at the camp fire.
22.00: Bed time.
Sunday 24-Sep-2006
Km: 26630 - 27232 = 602 km.
07.15: Waking up in Malealea (Lesotho).
08.30: Breakfast.
09.30: We left Malealea.
13.00: After first taking a wrong road into Lesotho we turned around to Mafeteng. There we took the right road and eventually we arrived at the South African border at Makhaleng Bridge. From here we had to take a 40 km dirt road to Zastron. From here we drove the R26 to Rouxville, where we took the N6 to Aliwal North.
P.S. This long weekend was Heritage Day in South Africa.
14.30: Lunch stop at Wimpy in Aliwal (N6). We continued our drive to Queenstown, still on the N6.
17.00: Arrival in Queenstown, where we decided to exit the N6 and take the R61 to Cradock.
18.15: Arrival at "Die Tuishuise" in the center of Cradock (www.tuishuise.co.za), where we were stunned to get a complete 19th century - restored - house for ourselves (R600). The Victoria House has a garage, 2 bathrooms, a living room and 3 bed rooms. It is part of a street full of houses, which are all part of the hotel. A MUST to stay here when you ever go to Cradock.
20.15: Dinner at the hotel (Hake with curry sauce).
22.30: Bed time.
Monday 25-Sep-2006
Km: 27232 - 27497 = 266 km.
06.30: We woke up.
08.45: Breakfast at the Victoria Hotel in Cradock. After breakfast we walked around town and did some grocery shopping at the Spar supermarket.
11.00: We left Cradock on our way to Port Elizabeth.
14.00: Arrival (check in) at the Marina Hotel at Marine Drive (R970 incl. Breakfast, room 337 with ocean view) in Port Elizabeth. Because Sjoukje discovered underwear from the previous guest hanging on the inside bathroom door, the hotel manager upgraded us to a bigger executive room 434. Again with a great ocean view.
14.30-17.00: We walked on Algoa beach and visited the shops at "The Boardwalk". There we had 2 Cajun chicken salads, a smoothie and a beer (R125).
20.00-22.00: Drinks in the launch bar of the hotel (choc-nut martini and beer).
22.00-00.00: After watching TV with a bag of chips we went to bed.
Tuesday 26-Sep-2006
Km: 27497 - 27700 = 203 km.
07.30: Time to wake up.
10.45: After an extensive breakfast with a view at the Marne Drive beach we left the hotel and drove to Addo Elephant.
12.00: Arrival at Addo Elephant National Park game reserve.
18.00: Arrival at guest house "Aardvark" in Addo. This house and guest houses were completely renovated and re-opened in September 2005 (R150 p.p/n.). Breakfast is an extra R20 p.p.
19.00-21.00: Dinner at the Lenmore restaurant in Addo.
21.30: Early bed time.
Wednesday 27-Sep-2006
Km: 27700 - 28065 = 365 km.
07.30-09.00: Wake up and breakfast at "Aardvark" guest house.
09.00: On our way to Tsitsikamma Park.
12.00: Stop at the Storms river.
13.00: We stopped at the "Big Tree" (R6 p.p.).
13.30-14.30: Lunch at café Bacchus in Stormsrivier. Toasted sandwiches and strawberry milkshakes, grilled chicken breast and a nice glass of red wine.
Note: everything Sjoukje orders during this vacation seems to be unavailable. Even today when she played it safe by ordering orange juice ... sorry, but we've just ran out of orange juice.
Via the N2 we drove towards Nature's Valley, but halfway we took the R102 scenic drive. Just before Nature's Valley we saw a baboon (monkey) family on the middle of the road.
17.30: We arrived in Plettenberg at the Protea Keurbooms River hotel (R570 p.n.).
20.00: Dinner buffet at the hotel.
21.30: Phone call from Ton's parents.
23.00: Bed time.
Thursday 28-Sep-2006
Km: 28065 - 28228 = 163 km.
08.00: Wake up and breakfast at the Protea Keurbooms River hotel.
11.00: We visited Eco's house in Wittedrift, a few kilometers from Plettenberg Bay.
12.00-13.50: We went to Robberg and walked to Gap Beach and back.
14.30: Arrival at Knysna's Waterfront, we had lunch at Café Mario; Italian and tuna salad with drinks. After lunch we drove to the lookouts over Knysna and even further to a big ocean beach.
18.00: Dinner at "The Lookout" in Plettenberg Bay (recommended by Eco). Great pasta and sirloin steak.
20.00: Back at the hotel. We had a glass of wine in the bar a wrote a few postcards. Later we watched tv in our room.
00.00: Bed time.
Friday 29-Sep-2006
Km: 28228 - 28570 = 342 km.
08.00: Wake up and had breakfast at the Protea Keurbooms River hotel.
10.00: Leaving Plettenberg Bay (we passed Wittedrift) on route to Uniondale through a beautiful pass. The we saw clouds coming from the ocean entering Plettenberg Bay.
13:00-13.00: Sandwich lunch break at The Plough restaurant in De Rust.
We then drove to Prince Albert and took the very challenging but beautiful drive over the Swartberg Pass, although it said at the entrance that it was supposedly closed. The climb was from 740 meters to the top, which is at 1610 meters.
18.00: We arrived in the ostrich farm town of Oudshoorn, where we stayed at one of the hundreds of B&B's, La Pension (South African owned, R250 p.p./n.).
20.00-21.30: Dinner at Friedl's in Oudshoorn (R105 for 2 persons; lasagna and Thai chicken strips, including 2 wines).
Saturday 30-Sep-2006
Km: 28570 - 28667 = 97 km.
07.00: Waking up.
08.00-09.00: We had breakfast at La Pension B&B in Oudshoorn.
10.30-13.00: We visited the Highgate Ostrich farm (10 km from Oudshoorn) for a tour and show.
13.00: Drive to Mossel Bay.
14.30: Checking in at The Point Hotel in Mossel Bay, located at a rock facing the Indian ocean, underneath a lighthouse. We stayed in room #501.
16.00: Lunch at the Khoi Village. It's just a coincidence that we met 3 Dutch travelers for the 3rd time, but the meeting locations were so far apart: Lesotho, Addo Elephant and then here. We also met an English group of travelers 3 times.
After this we walked along the waterfront and watched a few surfers.
18.30: The ABSA Currie Cup (rugby) was on tv, the Bulls played against the Cheetas.
22.00-02.30: We went back to the Khoi Village, where we sat around the camp fire and had interesting conversations.
Sunday 01-Oct-2006
Km: 28667 - 28969 = 302 km.
07.30: Waking up with an ocean breeze.
09.00-10.00: During breakfast we saw 3 whales spraying. At times we could see their tails too.
11.00-13.00: We visited the Bartolomeu Dias museum, where we saw a replica of his ship. It was built in 1 year and finished in November 1987 (1 million rand) and then sailed to Mossel Bay in 3 months. It arrived in February 1988 during the 500th anniversary of Dias' first landing at Mossel Bay. Attached was the maritime museum.
13.00-15.00: We drove the N2 (Garden Route) from Mossel Bay to Swellendam, where we had pancakes for lunch. There we decided to continue to the most southern point of Africa, Cape Agulha. This is also the place where the Indian Ocean meets the Atlantic Ocean. And also where the compass needle point exactly to the (magnetic) north.
17.00: Upon arrival we decided to stay in the stylish and beautiful Agulhas Country Lodge (R450 p.p./n.), right at the beach of the Indian Ocean. We stayed in room #1. The owner used to be a helicopter pilot in the South African air force until he started the guest house in 1997.
19.00: Dinner at the lodge (excellent lamb fillet).
21.00: Wine, coffee and cigars (Ritmeester) with the others guests in the lodge.
23.15: Falling asleep with Tol & Tol IV (cd and player in the room).
Monday 02-Oct-2006
Km: 28969 - 29275 = 306 km.
07.30: Waking up with another ocean breeze and an aromatherapy bath.
10.00: On our way to Hermanus.
11.30-13.30: In Hermanus we watched whales from the shore. We also had lunch here and while having lunch we could even spot whales in the bay.
On our way from Hermanus to the wine area around Stellenbosch and Franschhoek we spotted many more whales. It was even better and much closer from the R44 coastal road.
17.00: Arrival in Franschhoek, where we found Auberge Bligny B&B (R350 per room per night). We stayed in room #1. The first settlers in Franschhoek were the French Huguenotes (Jean Blignaut in the year 1723), which explains the plenty of French names in this region and the abundance of wineries.
18.00-20.30: Dinner at French restaurant "ICI at le Quarter Français". Risotto (R75), sirloin steak (R80) and of course ...
From the wine list we ordered a bottle of fruity and oaken Glenwood Shiraz 2002 (by Glen Carlou, Klapmuts/Paarl, South Africa). A bottle was R190.
Note: a bottle of still water was R18 and Irish coffee was R20.
23.30: Bed time.
Tuesday 03-Oct-2006
07.30: Waking up in Franschhoek.
08.30-09.00: Breakfast.
09.30: We left the B&B for our wine tasting route.
10.45-12.00: We arrived at Simonsvlei winery in Klapmuts (near Paarl). Here we tasted 5 different wines and we bought a box of Shiraz (6 bottles).
12.00-13.30: Arrival at the Fairview Goatshed. Sjoukje tasted 5 different wines a 5 different goat cheeses. We also had a cheese lunch here, with 6 different goat and cow cheeses: Camembert, brie, Blue Tower, Roydon, Chevin with sun dried tomato & basil and cream cheese with French onion & chives.
14.30: We entered Cape Town by the N1 highway and drove to Dolphin Beach and Blouberg Beach, where we looked at Robben Island (Nelson Mandela's former prison island) and kite surfers.
15.30: Drinks (white chocolate strawberry smoothie and a Black Label beer) and sushi + veggie spring roles at the News Café at Blouberg Beach.
17.00: Derick picked us up at the Neww Café and we drove to his house together (3 km. Drive from Blouberg Beach).
We stayed home at Derick and Crista's for their lovely dinner.
00.00: Bed time.
Wednesday 04-Oct-2006
07.30: Waking up.
12.00: Arrival at Hillcrest winery in Durbanville. Christa joined us for (free) wine and olive tasting. We also bought a case of chardonnay (6 bottles for R360) and 2 bottles of dessert wine. After tasting we had lunch at the winery (vegetable sandwiches and veal puschetta).
15.00-15.30: We had a quick stop at Derick's office to pick up Anja.
16.00-18.00: Christa, Anja, Nina, Sjoukje and Ton visited the Kirstenbosch National Botanical Garden in Cape Town.
20.00-23.00: Italian dinner @ Primi ... (Waterfront) in Cape Town.
Thursday 05-Oct-2006
07.30: Waking up.
11.00: We started to drive the coastal road (M4) via Muizenberg, Fishhoek, Simonstown, Boulders to the Cape of Good Hope (Cape Point).
13.15-14.00: Lunch at Puinguin Restaurant in Boulders (http://www.bouldersbeach.co.za).
17.15: We met Alexandra at Summerset in Cape Town and after getting some groceries we drove to the family house in Hout Bay, where we enjoyed the view and took pictures with Alexandra's guest Sav (she's over from Toronto).
20.30: Dinner prepared by Alexandra and Sav (Savitry).
00.00: Bed time.
Friday 06-Oct-2006
07.45: Waking up in Hout Bay and drive to Cape Town.
11.00: Ferry ride with the "Susan Kruger" to Robben Island, where Nelson Mandela was in prison for 27 years. We also managed to get Sav on board.
Our tour guide was Modise Phekonyane (44 years old). He was 17 year old when he became prisoner on Robben Island for 5 years - from 1977 and 1982. He is/was a close friend of Nelson Mandela and was very impressed by him.
Mosise published a book with poems he wrote in prison, called "My freedom, my passion". We bought it and Modise autographed it.
We also stopped at the house where Robert Sobukwe worked without being allowed to speak to anyone.
18.00-20.00: Drinks at the Radison hotel, from where we could see of big school of dolphins swimming and jumping in the ocean.
20.00-23.00: Dinner at "Bravo" italian restaurant in Cape Town.
00.00-01.00: Packing suite cases for the return trip.
Saturday 07-Oct-2006
Km: final reading = 29974.
07.00: Waking up in Hout Bay and drive to Cape Town.
09.30: We met Derick, Christa, Anja and Nina at the bottom of the Table Mountain (Tafelberg) cable car. It was cloudy in the city, but at the cable car station it was clear skies with a view over the clouds. Once we we on top of Table Mountain the clouds opened up, but also the wind increased so much, that everybody had to vacate the mountain.
13.00-16.30 We all enjoyed the buffet at Moyo (http://www.moyo.co.za) in Spier.
18.30-19.00: We arrived in Hout Bay to say goodbye to Alexandra.
20.30: We checked in at Cape Town International Airport.
22.45: We boarded the KLM aircraft (a Boeing 777-200 with the name Ferrara City). We had seats 21E and 21F (middle section, right aisle).
23.30: Take off for the return flight from Cape Town to Amsterdam.
Sunday 07-Oct-2006
11.00: Arrival at Amsterdam Schiphol Airport (Polderbaan).
13.30: Arrival at home.
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